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A Breakdown of the Paris Arrondissements by a Sassy New Yorker

Is there a city quite as impressive and daunting as Paris?

Planning a trip to the city of light can be challenging, especially when it comes to finding a place to stay. With 20 neighborhoods (arrondissements) to chose from, looking for accommodation can be terrifying, at least it was for me last spring when I was planning a 5 day trip to Paris. Luckily, one of my favorite bloggers lives in Paris.

The infamous, the glorious, mademoiselle Ella Coquine. Now I read a lot of blogs, because, well, I’m a blogger. But there are only a handful that I adore, and I read over and over again, and this is one of them. Lisa started her blog as a journal of 365 days of moving on from a relationship as an expat in Paris. The day I discovered her, I sat down and read her old posts from beginning to end, I was hooked! Filled with misadventure, humorous anecdotes and musings, I am never bored and always laughing as I read her stuff.

As soon as decided to head to Paris, I knew I needed her advice about the neighborhoods to stay in. She emailed me back with a fantastic reply, giving a good breakdown to all the arrondissements, to help me plan. Luckily, she squeezed me into her schedule and gave me an updated, detailed version of all 20 neighborhoods as a guest post while I’m in Turkey. Without further ado, Miss Coquine’s guide to the arrondissements of Paris!

paris arrondissements guide

So you’re finally taking that trip to Paris! The city of light, the city of love, the city of glamour! For any traveler popping their Paris cherry, planning it all from home can be as exciting as it can be a bit maddening. While most already know what they want to see and do before arriving at Charles de Gaulle airport, it’s finding a place to hang your hat at the end of the day that seems to be the crux of frustration for many new travelers. While searching for the right area, you’ll become familiarized with the clunky word arrondissements, which is just fancy French speak for districts. With there being 20 of them, how do you make a distinction from one to another, especially when theres a budget to consider?

When the lovely Liz the adventuress, contacted me last year looking for suggestions on where to stay in Paris, I sent her a rough and honest review of each one based on my four years of living here. Polishing it up a bit for you dear readers, here’s my take of each neighborhood.

1st Arrondissement

The ultimate Paris must-see; you’ve got the Tuileries, Pont des Art, Place de Vendôme, Rue de Rivoli, and a long shot view of the Eiffel Tower overlooking the river Seine at Place de la Concorde. This is the Paris you see in Chanel advertisements. In particular, the one with Keira Knightly scooting around town in a leather jumpsuit. A dream, right? Well dreams are expensive, and moderate priced housing in this arrondissement will get you closer to the urban shuffle that is Les Halles than Le Louvre.

2nd Arrondissement

The second is the city’s smallest arrondissement where the trendy Etienne Marcel and Rue Montorgueil reside; two bustling pockets of the 2nd  that are flushed with cafés and shopping. The second also homes the textile industry, so be careful of staying near Sentier as these textile workers get up early…as do their cacophonous delivery trucks.

3rd and 4th Arrondissements (The Marais)

As a former resident of what could be compared to Manhattan’s SoHo neighborhood, I hold a nostalgic fondness for this area that has something for everyone. Luxury independent designer boutiques contrast the plethora of vintage shopping that sell second hand goods by the kilo, as well as haute cuisine at Zagat celebrated restaurants versus local corner brasseries-turned hipster hangouts. Unfortunately, this neighborhood is notoriously pricey. A solution to those who have their sights set on the Marais would be to look into the outskirts like République as it is stone’s throw from this mecca of chic.

paris arrondissements guide

5th Arrondissement (Latin Quarter)

A fact about this area that is seldom communicated is that while there is the impressive Rue Mouffetard with its market, boutique hotels, and the old-world charm of the Latin Quarter, the area is brimming with students attending the universities and prestigious high schools. In short, French teenagers are everywhere, and in my experience down these tiny rues they walk in packs making it cumbersome to get around.

6th Arrondissement (Saint Germain-des-Prés)

There’s nothing about this iconic neighborhood, one that captures the true essence of the left bank that I can write that hasn’t already been written. One of my favorite things to do when I’m in the 6th is to pass the home of the legendary Serge Gainsbourg. The contrast between Serge’s home and the bourgeois 6th arrondissement is incredible. The neighbors cringe at the eyesore located in this otherwise upscale rive gauche neighborhood where they have rallied up to have the graffiti painted over, to find that it was tagged up again by fans and unfortunately vandals mere days later.

paris arrondissements guide

7th Arrondissement (Eiffel Tower)

The 7th  is absolutely gorgeous. Case in point, Karl Lagerfeld lives here. Anything as beautiful as this classically Parisian district that homes someone like Karl as you can imagine is pricey but in my opinion, a little sleepy. An appeal to this area of course is the Eiffel Tower but luckily views of this main attraction can be found in many of the other arrondissements. I assure you, you will pass it many times during your trip, and that staying in its arrondissement isn’t vital to your experience, unless of course you’re planning on doing a Lagerfeld stake-out than I guess this would be the place for you.

8th Arrondissement

All I can say is Ca-ching, ca-ching. This area is expensive. Expensive as in Oprah stays in here when she comes to Paris…just to give you an idea. If at some point you’re not sure you’re in Paris (after, say a trip up to Père-Lachaise), get off the metro line Alma-Marceau where you will be at the end of the ostentatious Avenue Montaigne (see: Sex and the City finale, anyone?) with a full frontal view of the Eiffel Tower. Ever wonder where the stereotype that Parisians have flawless style and impeccable taste came from? I’ll tell you where. It came from here.

9th and 10th Arrondissements

These two areas are lively areas with tons to see and do, and are great districts to look into. They’re also pretty spread out, so be careful because some parts can be pretty sketchy, especially the senior citizen prostitution hangouts off of Rue Saint Denis.

11th Arrondissement (Oberkampf)

It’s no secret that the 11th is of my favorite arrondissements in the city. Similar to the 9th, it’s young, fun and edgy. When looking for a place to stay, be careful because outside the hip and grungy Oberkampf, this neighborhood is not completely gentrified (which I think is a good thing), so it might be a little too “festive” for a first-timer, especially one without a working knowledge of French.

12th Arrondissement (Bastille)

One of the larger arrondissements in the city offers an influx of affordable housing by way of hostels, hotels and apartment rentals. I generally steer friends and family in the direction of this area as it is affordable and safe with access to major metro lines that will get you to many of the city’s major destinations.

13th Arrondissement (Chinatown)

This is my least favorite quartier in Paris. It’s out of the way, the boulevards are really wide where I feel like I’m more in Queens than I am in Paris. The one exception to this neighborhood is the hidden Buttes aux Cailles that boasts a stretch of restaurants, cafés and bars.

14th Arrondissement

The 14th gets a bad rap for being boring and too residential. While it’s not exactly the most raging arrondissement in the city, there is still something to say about its sleepy charm and quiet streets, especially for those who are looking to return to peace and quiet after a long day of sightseeing.

15th Arrondissement

The 15th is hit or miss. This is another neighborhood that has a stigma of being dull. Having lived here as well, I disagree. When closer to the 7th, you are close to Invalides, Ecole Militaire, and the Eiffel Tower. Just try to turn a blind eye to the concrete 1970s high-rises over by Beaugrenelle – or what locals refer to it as moche-grenelle (ugly grenelle).

16th Arrondissement

It’s extremely safe (just don’t watch the film Taken), residential and quiet, and you’re a stone’s throw from the Arc de Triomph and views of the Eiffel Tower. It’s also very upscale with a large American population of families who have been relocated professionally. Whenever I feel too boho to grace the sidewalks of this upper-class enclave, I head to the Palais de Tokyo for a dose of modern art at one of their free exhibits, and unwind with a cheap glass of wine in their café.

paris arrondissements guide
17th Arrondissement

Another neighborhood that is making a name for itself, thanks to the up-and-coming Batignolles area that houses many established French artists and writers. Because of its low profile, finding decent housing in a neighborhood that grants you access to Champs-Elysees and Parc Monceau is more manageable as well as bit more affordable for this otherwise bourgeois neighborhood.

18th Arrondissement

Please avoid any hotel or hostel that is off of the Barbès-Rochechouart or Château Rouge metro stop. If you happen to be staying in this district, use Google maps to make sure you are closer to the more populated Pigalle or Blanche metros. Parts of the 18th is like a vintage postcard of Paris (just don’t mind the controversial Starbucks that just popped up) with sights to see such as Sacre Coeur, Montmartre, and the Moulin Rouge. Just be wary about wondering around the desolate side streets at night. Really.

19th and 20th Arrondissements

For a first time visitor to Paris, I wouldn’t suggest staying in these neighborhoods. While there are things to see like the sprawling Parc des Buttes Chaumont, the markets and of course the famous Père-Lachaise cemetery, but these areas would make a better day trip. The increasingly large community of young prostitutes (again with the prostitution, but hey, it’s Paris!) in Belleville who aren’t as obvious as the 75 year olds dressed like Britney in the 10th could find you in a less than desirable tango in Paris.

Paris, a city seeped in the romanticism of history is abounding with places to see and experiences to absorb. These are just a few of my observations and discoveries of a place that will never cease to inspire me, and a place that I fortunately get to call home.

Lisa Czarina is a Paris-based writer who is a regular contributor to the Girls Guide to Paris, and has been featured in the Huffington Post Travel and on HGTV’s House Hunter’s International. She recounts her life as a brazen Italian-New Yorker on her award-winning blog, Ella Coquine. She can also be found on Twitter.

54 Responses to A Breakdown of the Paris Arrondissements by a Sassy New Yorker

  1. Cassandra February 20, 2013 at 8:26 pm #

    As someone who would like to (re)visit Paris one day, I found this tongue-in-cheek guide extremely helpful. Now I know which areas I’d pick to unpack my bags, which is priceless info indeed. Thanks, Lisa!

  2. The Wanderfull Traveler February 20, 2013 at 9:58 pm #

    I am in the midst of trying to figure out which area would best fit me. This will come in handy when I am ready to book for September.
    I’d love for you to stop by my blog and enter my #WTFrance2013 contest where readers give me advice on where and what I should go and do in Paris, or as day trips.
    I am hosting it monthly and February’s giveaway ends on the 24th so I’d love for you to stop by!

    Murissa

  3. Trevor Huxham February 20, 2013 at 10:07 pm #

    I visited Paris for the first time in December and (per Rick Steve’s recommendations) stayed in the Young & Happy hostel in the 5th arrondissement on Rue Mouffetard. I really loved the location—it felt central and close to everything yet still quiet, cozy, and just far enough away from the big tourist drags that I could chill out and recharge. Plus, Rue Mouffetard has a bajillion shops, affordable restaurants, and markets.

    Great article! Like Cassandra above, I’d love to go back to Paris…one day…and explore its neighborhoods outside of the Banks of the Seine :) This will be helpful!

    • Paul February 22, 2013 at 7:37 pm #

      Rue Mouffetard is wonderful.

    • Linda June 20, 2014 at 4:59 am #

      Can I ask how the weather was in December?

  4. Julia of Nowhere to Go but Everywhere February 20, 2013 at 10:13 pm #

    This is fantastic! I’ve been to Paris twice and, as much as it breaks my heart, I didn’t love it. Both trips were short weekend jaunts, so I didn’t get a chance to explore more than the touristy spots and museums. This little guide will be so helpful to see more of the real Paris during my next visit. Thanks, Lisa!

  5. Mary Kay February 21, 2013 at 8:37 am #

    Fantastic post, Lisa! Your descriptions of the 20 arrondissements are spot on. I’m bookmarking this post so that whenever someone asks for a description of the different districts, I can send it to them. It will save a lot of time because, as you said, it’s the number one question that people ask when they’re planning a trip to Paris.

  6. Rosemary Kneipp February 21, 2013 at 9:06 am #

    Hi, very interesting comments and useful for visitors and exchange students. I will submit them to my 28-year old daughter born and bred in Paris and see what she thinks! May I quote a paragraph from this post on my Wednesday’s Bloggers’ Round-up (with Read more to take readers back to your website)?

  7. Petite Adventures February 21, 2013 at 11:12 am #

    Great breakdown of the neighbourhoods! I’d always wondered what the differences were, and now I know – thanks for all the tips!

    Kate xo petite-adventures.blogspot.ca

  8. Shalu Sharma February 21, 2013 at 12:22 pm #

    I am planning to visit Paris in the summer hopefully this year. I love the way you have described these arrondissements. Obviously cannot miss the Eiffel Tower. Thanks for these places.

  9. Vanessa February 22, 2013 at 12:32 pm #

    Great post! I was an au pair in the 17th for one year and loved it! If you want to relax on a beautiful lawn surrounded by perfectly manicured flowers while dozens of cute French children (with their nannies and occasionally parents) play in the grass or bike on the surrounding paths, I suggest visiting Parc Monceau near the 17th (it’s actually across the “border” in the 8th). My favorite “real Paris” place!
    p.s. I couldn’t agree more that you should reaaaaally be careful where your hostel is in the 18th. There are so many hostels in this area, but it can be quite an unpleasant/dangerous place especially for a tourist.

  10. Yohannan Ver Walensis de Serrant March 28, 2013 at 6:52 pm #

    Liz, I am very taken with you website, but most f all your savvy experience and delightful, interesting commentary. When you wrote, “what can ge said of the…that asn’t been said already” I thought to myself, say it, say it! I found you by searching for information about Montmartre and the film “Amelie”. Of course its true, few things about movies are true to real life, when looking closer, they may be, but are just more subtle?

    I collect affordable art, and my recent acquisition is a painting of the Moulin de la Galette by Jean Germain-Jacob, 1949, the era when Hollywood produced it’s romantic films of Paris, this painting would hsve been one by one of the many earning a living painting plein aire. What it lacks in sophistication, it makes up for in captivating charm, which the same can be said for your website. You have a good thing going; is it worldwide? I once made a comment on the Scala Santa in Rome and found it has been translated into practically every major language on earth.
    You would be doing many a favor by linking this up with some worldwide travel review websites who do the translating for you.
    Bon Voyage, Jochanan Ver Walensis

  11. Yohannan Ver Walensis de Serrant March 28, 2013 at 6:56 pm #

    PS, I meant to say your website has charm, but is does not lack sophistication in fact just the opposite. cheers!

  12. Yohannan Ver Walensis de Serrant March 28, 2013 at 6:57 pm #

    PS, I meant to say your website has charm, but is does not lack sophistication in fact just the opposite. cheers!
    This is not duplicate message

  13. Christine June 24, 2013 at 4:46 pm #

    Hi! I just discovered your blog and seriously at the PERFECT time! My husband and I are heading to Paris to celebrate our 1 year wedding anniversary and I am beyond excited. I’ve been a little overwhelmed by my research of the different arrondissements and this post has been EXTREMELY helpful. Thanks for all the details you included as your descriptions really give a good insight to each of the different areas. Thank you again!!

    xx,
    Christine
    thefashionpledge.com

  14. Morgan July 5, 2013 at 8:27 pm #

    Leaving for a 10-day trip to Paris in a month and will revisit again in 9 months on my R-T-W trip. This post is beyond helpful!!

    • Liz July 7, 2013 at 4:31 pm #

      Glad to hear it, that’s what we were shooting for :)

  15. Caroline August 20, 2013 at 5:29 am #

    Fantastic! I am so grateful for such a charming and honest insight into Paris. My daughter and her university friend are moving to Paris in September for 9 months and to say I am nervous and worried is an understatement. The information you provide has shown us where we should and shouldn’t look for safe affordable accommodation for them but also some of the fantastic places they will be able to visit. Thank you (from a nervous worried Mum) x

  16. new application shop August 22, 2013 at 4:41 am #

    I have got study some really good information right here. Absolutely really worth bookmarking for returning to. I’m wondering the fact that whole lot attempt you set to make the kind of great educational website.

  17. Elisabeth September 19, 2013 at 3:42 am #

    I’m spending the semester studying abroad in France and am in the midst of planning my first trip to Paris is over 10 years! This post was super helpful and has definitely given me some great ideas for my trip!

  18. Faye September 29, 2013 at 2:53 pm #

    What a helpful guide. I was just trying to help a friend chose the best neighbourhood to find a hotel and sent her this link. Thank you so much for sharing :)

  19. 豪華 ピーコート 品質 November 11, 2013 at 2:08 am #

    I enjoy what you guys are up too. This kind of clever work and coverage!
    Keep up the great works guys I’ve included you guys to my blogroll.

  20. Becca December 26, 2013 at 4:32 pm #

    finally, some useful and cheeky info on Paris I can actually use! I’ve been to Paris twice and the arr. still confuse me a bit, but your guide is so helpful.

    • Liz January 3, 2014 at 8:31 pm #

      Thanks!

  21. Pamela January 7, 2014 at 10:22 am #

    Hi, thanks for this post. It’s going to be my first time in Paris, and I’m about to rent a studio near the metro La Fourche, do you think is a good area? I know it’s in the 18th and you told us to stay away, :)
    Thank you.

  22. Veronica Rosenshein January 9, 2014 at 12:08 pm #

    I loved reading this about Paris. We are heading there in October. Both my husband and I are not quite Senior Citizens but close. We are looking for a lot of vintage shopping, 3 star hotel accommodations ( not four or five as too costly) we will not be renting a car and have never used public transportation. ( We live in the Outer Banks of North Carolina populations less than 15 thousand )
    So……. where we don’t want to be is trendy bar areas neither of us drink, we don’t need trendy restaurants as we both are meat and potato kind of folks. Any suggestions???? Thank you so much

  23. Prasad Joshi February 17, 2014 at 11:51 pm #

    It was really a great learning experience for me while reading your article. According to my personal traveling experience it is always so tedious and hard to get a best accommodation place in any popular tourist city. As most of the tourist spots are always crowded and most of the accommodation places are always booked. So I always prefer to go for advance booking. I am planning a trip to Paris and probably I will be there in first week of April. I got so man useful information from your article and it will be definitely useful to plan my trip itinerary.

  24. Shelley April 5, 2014 at 5:26 pm #

    Hi There I have enjoyed reading your Paris Arrondissements Guide. I would appreciate your feed back. We are travelling to Paris Aug 14 for 4 nights. I want it to be a special occasion for my husband and I. What area would you recommend we stay in. We are late 40’s can afford mod rate. Will be using public transport and walking around to see the sights. We would like to stay in a bustling area with access to cafes/restaurants, maybe a romantic type area. This will be our last 4 nights of a 7 week journey before returning to NZ
    Cheers!

  25. Melody May 31, 2014 at 1:10 am #

    Thanks for a wonderful breakdown! I’ve only been a couple of times but this will help for the next visit!

  26. Rami July 1, 2014 at 6:17 am #

    Love your post. I’ve been working on a Paris guide myself and I love how your personality brings a fresh vibe to the different Arrondissements.

    Keep these coming!

  27. Vanessa July 2, 2014 at 10:43 am #

    Awesomex3 recap of the arondissements. Thanks for your your valuable tips.

  28. Nick July 26, 2014 at 4:43 pm #

    Great description of each district indeed. Have stayed in 3rd and 13th and there is no comparison between these two. 13th felt more like Queens, yet very safe and quiet but no sightseeing whatsoever

    P.s. Great blog

  29. Melissa | Suitcase and Heels August 15, 2014 at 11:23 am #

    I’m currently planning my first trip to Paris and this guide has been a huge help! The toughest part of visiting a new place is not knowing which parts of town are the best to stay in.

  30. Paige August 21, 2014 at 2:40 am #

    While I agree that at first glance Paris can seem somewhat daunting, I certainly wouldn’t say it’s the most daunting. Its reasonably well sign-posted and pedestrian-friendly and with so many landmarks it’s surprising how quickly you start to recognise you are. In contrast I found my first visit to New York a far more daunting affair!

  31. Greg Chadwick September 8, 2014 at 7:12 pm #

    perfect breakdown Liz. My favorite is the 18th and 1-4 arrondisments. however not all of the 18th is a good area. anthing near the outer edge of the 18th and barbes rochechouart.

    also the only reason we ever went to the 19th was for park alpin and park Buttes Chaumont and Parc Parc de la Villette.

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