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San Juan de Gaztelugatxe on the Basque Coast, source, Flickr Creative Commons
Spain is such a culturally diverse, vibrant and enthralling country. It often feels like a dozen small countries rolled into one.
There is so much to see and do, which is why when people only go to the Big Four (my own invention) – Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla and Granada – it thoroughly GALLS me! Granted, these are great cities, but are they my favorite cities in Spain? Um, nope. Not even close.
I like to think of myself as a certified Spain expert whereas my friends and probably many of you think I am a Spain know-it-all. What’s the difference really? I have lived in Spain for over 3 years in many different cities, I’ve got a lot to say on the matter. I’ve even written a post with 5 reasons to go to southern Spain, but now it’s time to shine the spotlight on my favorite region: the great green north.
Last year I lived in Logroño, the capital of itty bitty La Rioja wine country in the north, nestled in between Pamplona, Bilbao, Soria and Zaragoza. Two types of tourists come to La Rioja: wine snobs and people hiking the camino de santiago. Spaniards don’t even really know where it is, and I’ve elicited more than a few raised eyebrows when I said not only do I lived in Logroño, I freaking loved it!
In fact, I think northern Spain is really, REALLY under-appreciated and overlooked.
Boom. I’m throwing down the gauntlet (I’m looking at you, Andalucía), northern Spain is the best side of Spain. Northern Spain has the best food, wine, and landscapes on the entire Iberian Peninsula, I’ll just come out and say it. I’ve been everywhere except for Murcia, but I’m guessing that little region isn’t going to blow the entire northern coast out of the water. If you want to come to Spain and try something a little different, head north, not south.
Given its staggering diversity, it was hard to pick just 5 reasons to go to northern Spain, but I’ve narrowed it down to some of my favorite activities, some are well-known, some are not. Either way I hope to inspire a little spark in all of you to want to visit one of these places in the future.
Have you ever been to northern Spain? Would you go to some of these places after reading my tips here?
Cordillera Cantábrica, source
1. Discover San Sebastián and the Basque Coast
San Sebastian is the shining crown of northern Spain. Expensive and luxurious, it demands to be wined-and-dined. Donostia in Basque, the language spoken in this region, San Seb is probably one of the most visually-stimulating, mouth-watering treat of a city. It’s very well-known among Spaniards and Europeans but it’s often overlooked by tourists seeking the more “traditional” Spain, since well, the Basques don’t even consider it to BE Spain.
Only a few kilometers from France and situated on the playa de la concha beach (where I famously lost my bikini top), it’s also famous for it’s cuisine and basque pintxos (tapas). It’s a popular town and for a good reason. If you are going to go to one place in northern Spain, let it be San Sebastián.
Tip: San Sebastian is best visited in summer when you can enjoy the beaches and it’s warm enough to swim, otherwise the rest of the year it’s known for being foggy and rainy on the Basque coast. Best to rent a car and drive around the coast to Bilbao or up into Bayonne in France. So beautiful.
2. Visit a winery in La Rioja
I can’t write a list about northern Spain and leave out my favorite region! La Rioja is wine country, plain and simple. Red wine, full of fruit, body and flavor that costs next to nothing. In this tiny area, there are hundreds and hundreds of wineries to chose from, make a week of it. The best time to come is in the fall when the leaves change on the vineyards and you drive through miles of golden, red and yellow fields. Many wineries are located around Logroño and Haro, easily accesible by train or bus, otherwise you’ll need 4 wheels to get to them. Logroño, the capital of La Rioja was also named the gastronomic capital of Spain last year, which means you’ll eat very, very well.
Tip: The famous Wine Battle (Batalla del vino) takes place in Haro every summer in June and Logroño celebrates the wine harvest with a huge festival in September, San Mateo, both excellent times to visit the region.
3. Go hiking in Navarra
There is so much more to Navarra than 10 days in July for the Running of the Bulls at San Fermín in Pamplona. Overlooked, even by locals, Navarra is one of my favorite regions in Spain for its anonymity, beauty and diversity. This summer I spent teaching in English camps in different villages around Navarra and I wasn’t disappointed. Navarra is at a crossroads between France, the Basque Country and the rest of Spain, so most of my students were trilingual. Talk about impressive.
My favorite discovery was this beautiful park called Urederra. Famous among locals but completely unknown to outsiders, it is a series of pools, creeks and waterfalls in the woods and mountains with the most sparkling cerulean blue water you have ever laid eyes on. Strikingly similar to Lake Plitvice in Croatia, it’s on a smaller scale, more enclosed within the forest and utterly secret. Read more about it here.
Tip: You have to go by car and there aren’t many places to eat nearby so it’s a good idea to bring a picnic. It’s most beautiful in the summer in the sunshine, but it’s also nice in the fall when the leaves change.
4. Make the pilgrimage to St. James’ Cathedral in Galicia
Galicia is perhaps one of the most overlooked regions in Spain, I think because it’s so remote. Nestled in the top left corner of the Iberian Peninsula, it’s green, rainy and very different from the other regions, so different in fact they have their own official language, gallego, and Spaniards tend to harken it to Ireland for it’s Celtic history and diverse landscape. If people have heard of it, mostly likely it’s because of its famous city, Santiago de Compostela, where the apostle St. James is supposedly buried.
Source, Flickr Creative Commons
Since the early middle ages, the Camino de Santiago (St. James’ Way) has been the most trafficked pilgrimages in Europe. To walk the whole way from the French-Spanish border takes at least a month, though it’s very popular to walk bits and pieces, or even cycle it. I haven’t walked the camino yet, but it’s at the top of my to-do list, though I have made a pilgrimage of sorts to Santiago 5 years ago on an 8 hour overnight bus from Salamanca, pure hell. Between the beautiful medieval city, the rugged coastline, and the unique food, Galicia is a worthy destination all on it’s own.
Tip: there are many domestic flights into Santiago, making it a great weekend getaway from Madrid, Barcelona or the rest of Europe. Galicia is also next door to Portugal and beautiful Porto with plenty of buses and trains in between.
Source, Flickr Creative Commons
5. Explore the famous Picos de Europa mountains in Asturias
I have never actually been to these mountains but from I have heard from friends and their photos, they are just incredible. And let’s be honest, when are mountain ranges ever disappointing? Asturias holds a special place in my heart, a place I have been dreaming about in Spain for almost a decade and one I will wait until I have enough time to do it justice. Apart from being home to beautiful cities like Gijón and Oviedo (Vicky, Christina, Barcelona anyone?) Asturias is famous for it’s unique green landscape, delicious cider, beautiful coastline and uh-mazing mountains known as los Picos de Europa (the Peaks of Europe). Renting a chalet in these mountains is at the top of my summer to-do list, who’s with me?
Tip: Asturias can be rainy so it’s best in the summer. Make sure to visit Oviedo and try the famous Asturias cider and cider dishes. Be sure to visit Covadonga, where the first successful battle against the invading Moors began the Reconquest of Spain by the Christians in 722.
Source, Flickr Creative Commons
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youngadventuress
Great post, and one that came just at the right time!
I fancy a cheeky jaunt up to the Northern peninsular during semana santa but hadn’t decided where yet. I’ll probably have 4-5 days. Do you reckon I could get the best out of both San Seb and Bilbao in that amount of time?
Josh
Yeah you can definitely visit both in 5 days, even with a day trip or two thrown in there. I love the Basque Country!
It makes me so, so happy that you put San Sebastían as number one on this list. I visited there for only two nights over Christmas break and LOVED the city, from its creative pintxos to its beautiful scenery (even in winter!) and even just the general, positive mood about the town. Bilbao I didn’t like so much but San Seb became one of my favorite cities in Spain.
And I am really excited to move to Galicia in the fall for Year Two of the language assistant program. I’m a little uneasy since I love living in warm Andalucía (okay, it’s really cold and rainy here right now…) but, like you said, it’s a really-unknown corner of the country that my inner hipster would love to explore.
BTW I totally agree with your Big Four of Spanish cities. Although I feel like Barcelona-Granada-Sevilla-Madrid are perhaps the must-visit places in Spain for a first-time visit, Northern Spain definitely merits a trip all on its own. I wouldn’t say it feels like a whole different country, but it’s a VERY different part *of* the country, another angle or facet that is still 100% Spain.
I can’t wait to hear about your next year in the north!!
You’re TORTURING me. In the best way possible. I think I’ve read all of your posts on Spain at least twice. I’m officially moving back to Spain in September, and I swear each post makes me more excited/makes the pain of waiting more excruciating!
I spent last year studying in Granada, but will now be heading north to Madrid. I had never thought too much of making my way above Madrid as I’m enchanted by Andalucía, but with all your posts on La Rioja and now this, the north has risen to the top of my list! Thanks for a great post
Wahoo! I can’t wait to hear more about your move! Definitely make your way up north, I promise you won’t regret it
You know I’m particularly partial to Seville, having lived here for so long, but I’m fortunate to have a summer job in the North. In fact, after Seville, my favorite cities in Spain are mostly in the north: Coruna, Gijon and practically all of Asturias! I’m begging my parents to come in the summer so I can take them to anywhere with good cheese and cider.
Yes! I just love the food up there, it’s amazing!
Love this post! I agree that the north is deeply over-looked by tourists (for which I suppose we should probably be grateful!) The areas of the north that I am dying to see next are Basque Country and Asturias… that being said Spain is my absolute favorite country out of the 27 I have visited- truly I would love to go anywhere in Spain, as soon as possible!
Yay! That’s what I like to hear!
Let’s hear it for the north of Spain! I’ve been in the Basque Country for 6 years now, traveled all over the north and can definitely attest to its greatness! I do love a weekend getaway now and again down south to escape the cold, rainy weather but I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else!
Excellent! I am in love with the Basque Country, it’s so lovely and different! I prefer living in the north out of anywhere I’ve lived in Spain!
The north, the north!
I have loved the places I’ve visited there and definitely want to explore more of these regions. In 2007 I went hiking in the Picos–they are stunning. Potes, the tiny town I stayed in in this mountainous region, actually reminded me of Switerland!
Jealous, I want to go hiking in the picos so badly, but I am waiting for the right moment
Galicia is VERY underrated. Out of all of Spain, it is my favorite place. It may even be my favorite place in the world. The people, the food, and the parties! Although parties in the rest of Spain are intense….no one compares to the gallegos! Cities like A Coruna, Baiona, and Vigo are among some of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen, along with San Sebastian!
I love Galicia, I can’t wait to go back one day, oh man the food, yum!
Ah wow, I had no idea how much is in Southern Spain because definitely all I ever hear about is Southern Spain (and I’m guilty having only been to Barcelona). I would really love to check out Urederra and La Rioja!
Yay! Yes no one talks much about the north and it drives me bonkers, its really really beautiful, and totally untapped
The North of Spain is really beautiful! I want to hike the Camino de Santiago in the next few years… I heard you get to eat amazing tapas, have great views (specially in the Northern route) and meet great people!
Exactly! You heard correct! the camino is high on my to-do list too
Hi Liz,
nice post. Now I’m living in the North!
Planning a trip with my mom and curious if you have any recommendations for wineries/bodegas in Logroño? I imagine you must have a few since you lived there!
Would love to hear about them!
Yes! Muga, Marques de Riscal, LAN, Dinastia Vivanco and Bodegas Franco-Españolas, check them out
Oh my God… I never knew that Spain is that beautiful! I wish I could go there someday. No, I should! I love your post
Yes please go to northern Spain! It’s really beautiful up there xx
I lived in Asturias, it’s beautiful – you should go
Can’t wait to be back there next month for a long weekend.
WOW, those pics blew my mind! Thanks for sharing them Neil
Oh, and some of my photos of Asturias for you and your readers:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.238978100365.295974.723550365&type=1&l=68cd8ddf6a
Your blog posts are making my mouth water with Spainstalgia. I don’t miss the bureaucracy… but oh man, everything else.
Hi there,
Nacedero de Urederra looks beautiful! I want to go there (and I probably will, given I usually stay in Logroño at least twice a year
!
Do you know if one is allowed to swim in those pools? After all, it is a natural reserve.
Thanks!
Nick
I love this post and your blog (which I’ve been reading religiously as I just applied to Auxiliares and BEDA.) I wish Cantabria was mentioned here, I know you mentioned Santillana del Mar in another post, but all of Cantabria is absolutely beautiful like the rest of northern Spain! It has a portion of Picos de Europa and many famous caves known for geology and cave paintings; particularly Altamira. Not to mention delicious food and gorgeous beaches! My boyfriend is from Santander so I’ve spent the past two summers there with him. I’m so glad someone else appreciates the north of Spain, I feel like it is usually forgotten.
Totally going to use this when I visit Northern Spain in the fall! I used to live in Amsterdam, so I can relate to missing life on the other side of the pond. Hope you get back over there one day. x
Great post! I love northern Spain. Although, I have just as big of a place in my heart for southern Spain. Spain is a diverse land, and each region’s differences seem to captivate me with their own individualities. Ironically, I put País Vasco and Andalucía for my top two regional preferences for the auxiliar program for next year!
It’s so hard to describe to people why Asturias (or northern Spain) is so unique, given that most people’s perception of Spain is that it’s all just like Andalucía. I myself was a little taken back for the first time I arrived in Oviedo, where I studied for 6 months. We got there in January and there was a bit of snow on the ground so needless to say we were all a bit surprised. After the initial shock, however, it was easy to see how amazing and perfect Oviedo is. It is like the ideal city, almost utopic. Asturias also has a lot of untold history to the outsider that’s really fascinating. “Asturias es España y el resto tierra conquistada.” jeje
Hey Alex, thank you for sharing your passion about Asturias
I’d say it is even more underrated than Galicia, Vascongadas and Santander… sadly, because it has so much underneath….
And Liz, do not forget about the great gastronomy! It is amazing!
– By the way, rather that Oviedo, I’d suggest Villaviciosa as typical place for cider- not that fancy as the city, but it is “the region of the cider” 
Thank you for sharing a wonderful perspective of a “different Spain”. Sometimes I get annoyed by the typical image that has been shared abroad on Fiesta+Toros+Beach + Sun…..ugh.
Amazing review Liz!
I am 30yrs backpacker andI will visit Europe this summer, and in the end of July I will see Spain for the first time!
I already got a ticket and booked 4nights at Barcelona.
I got 4 more full days + 2 travelling days for Spain so I thought I SHOULD go to Madrid and Andalusia(Sevilla). After that I must go to Lisbon.
But Now I totally don’t know where to go!
I love hiking, and nature, and seaside and also experiencing the people and architecture by wandering around.
Should I stick to Barcelona-Sevilla-Madrid-Lisabon or it’s totally ok for the first time in Spain to go with 4 days in Bilbao (with daytrips) and then head to Lisabon from there?
This article is just what I needed. I’m planning to lease a car, picking it up in Barcelona and then returning it in Paris, I have a one way ticket will be exploring Europe for several months. Thanks for the wonderful pictures and inspiration.
-Adonis